Recenzje klientów dla Przenośna piła łańcuchowa VEVOR 355-914 mm, maks. grubość cięcia 5,08-300 mm, z szyną prowadzącą 2745 x 241 x 108,4 mm, odpowiednia do różnych potrzeb cięcia drewna.

Kupiłem ten zestaw do jedzenia, gdy oryginalny się zepsuł. Był dość stary i nic mi nie był winien, więc nadszedł czas na nowy. Ten jest bardzo prosty w montażu i nie zajął dużo czasu. Jedyne, co bym zmienił, to dodanie możliwości rozbudowy systemu szyn.

Kupiłem ten zestaw obiadowy, gdy mój oryginalny się zepsuł. Był dość stary i nic mi nie był winien, więc nadszedł czas na nowy. Montaż tego zestawu jest bardzo prosty i nie zajął dużo czasu. Jedyne, co bym zmienił, to dodanie sposobu na poszerzenie systemu szyn.

Great setup for milling. Of course the quality is not top notch but it is sturdy and simple to setup. I cut through some Sitka Spruce with it making some awesome 2” planks. Really good price for what you get. Love it so far!

I like my sawmill, great quality. Instructions were hard to understand, needs more detail and better pictures. It took all day to get it assembled properly. I would suggest that you start carrying the pulley system for advancing the chainsaw. They are hard to find online.

Bon produit. J'ai été heureusement surpris de la qualité du bois travaillé. Ça pris deux coupes avant de produire des planches parfaites. Je recommande sans hésiter.

I have asked for refound. I was told I got the refound in its original payment account I have made the purchase. I did not received the product!

Manque des pièce manque deux barres de longueur et deux petites traverses sur l'échelle

The machining is high quality and the design feels like a good prototype that still needs several revisions. The guide bar has lock nuts but the mill itself has neither lock washers nor lock nuts. The guide bar should come with 2 more cross bars, as the extension sections each get 1 instead of 2. Several attachments on the mill are designed to be tight metal to metal connections that also need to be readjusted frequently. The chainsaw clamp seems to be intended to be based on a single, small screw that's not externally adjustable. Lots of connections in the mill that are designed for regular adjustment are also part of the structure of the mill, so you basically have to rebuild it for every cut. Improvements I'm making: -added silicone strips to pad the height clamps, the length clamps, and the chainsaw clamp -replaced washers with lock washers on mill -replaced all clamp nuts with wingnuts for easier adjustment -removed chainsaw end guard, as this fixes the height of that clamp and makes it unworkable unless you want to drive a Phillips head into your chainsaw bar The instructions are fairly clear but the guide bar instructions don't explicitly mention the second set of washers for every connection--I finished assembly and realized I had half left.

I have been baking attempts to use this product and so far i am not enthusiastic about it to say least.... firstly: the guide rail already has a few design flaws the railing guide and screw inserts provided with leveling the initial cut from bark or (live edge) doesn't sit true flat, by that i mean from left to right can be set to level but also the length of the track itself need to be level. ...to intrigue my interests..... Playing with this design, i went out of my to setup a milling station, checking my variant along the way were level to the conditions the enviroment will allow rough level to be the determining factor to what is perceived to the eye to be (level), further building from the bas i ensure the bench was also level and the guide to be level to the prior to elements as well. This should guarantee the fact that three levels of (level), should comprise a level base to make this cut as level as possible and to have a clean flat cut, not true at all the Aluminum composition itself is already weak due to is natural composition in nature , Vibrations, Pinching and Dimensions of some of the attachements to include this to be level is rudimentary at best , the 3" screw provided to level said guide already interfere with a hard limit of 2 1/2" (2 5/8" from top of rail to bottom end of bolts holding the guides cross-bars intact) has to be added into your measurement before you make a cut or you'll whined up to cutting the guide and not any wood when paired with the Chainsaws' (Jig) attachment installed and sitting on the guide, wood log combination you may be attempting to cut. that and the 3" guide leveling screw will iterfere with you cut if not set deep enough causing the tope of the guide and (jig) to interfere with each other or worse there set too low and end up catching one with your chainsaws teeth (Watched it happened to me as i was making my cut). Also Inspecting the (Jig) component of the whole kit purchase you have to offer , some of its design flaws start with having to ensure that what you have as 1/8" increments is true to the measurement you seek to make your initial cut too. From the bottom of the (jig) to the top of where your chainsaws bar sit or (pinched in-place) is already off. Noting this by taking a "Stanley 25' Measuring Tape" where your provided increments are to refer your thickness cut, if you place as best as you can , your tape's end meeting the bottom and measuring to top of your bar-Chains Teeth it'll shave a 1/16" of an inch from your cut as well , giving you if you do not add any curing time to your newly made lumber this could actually shave you under your targeted dimensions you aim to have as a final end users-product. I have to ask was this made on the computer screen or actually tested by an experienced person who may have had the joy to test it in the first place, he may have my idea afterwards on "it could use some design change

Save yourself the money and trouble, use 2x4s.